Article: GOOD STUFF QUICK HITS FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD BY ANN HELLER; LEFTOVERS FROM THE 1980S

A mandated cleanup of the newspaper offices in preparation for new carpeting has forced me to dip into stacks of dusty boxes. One, filled with notes and menus dating to 1985, also produced some startling photos.

That was the year I went to the Symposium on American Food in San Francisco, and one of the featured speakers was Emeril Lagasse, a young chef then at Commander's Palace in New Orleans. He cooked quail with port and figs for us.

My file from the conference included pictures of the speakers. The one of Lagasse prompted an office wag to say, `Well, that just shows what 17 years of pork fat will do for you.'

SQUID RECIPE GETS PERSONAL

And that archival exploration of boxes of unfiled ...

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