Article: On A Small Scale; Two nations within Italy but neither in nor of it; San Marino

One moment you are driving through the small villages and wheat fields of the Italian Marches, then suddenly there is a large white sign: "Dogana" (customs). Except for the sign, the border would go unnoticed; even the policeman on guard lounges at the side of the road as the cars roll by.

San Marino makes much of its status as a sovereign nation, but in fact everything except its legal status is Italian: the look, the language, the cuisine and the culture. Only the Dogana signs on the roads leading in from all directions warn visitors that they have left Italy behind.

As sovereign states go, few are as minuscule as the independent Republic of San Marino, which clings to the rocky slopes ...

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