Article: Tales From a Vienna Roof; Evergreens and Clematis Blend in Rooftop Harmony

Sitting among the dense greenery of Hildegard and Walter Greinert's rooftop garden in Vienna, one feels the blue sky is almost within reach-and more than just the sky. To the north, the Danube is a blue-gray ribbon. A few blocks away, yellow trams run like windup toys between dotted lines formed by alle'es of horse chestnut trees. As far as the eye can see-and beyond-red-tiled roofs tilt at a variety of angles, punctuated by verdigris domes. Here and there, gables are capped with railings of delicate wrought-iron arabesques painted black.

From this vantage point, Vienna is the glittering imperial city it was only two generations ago: the seat of power in Central Europe and a beacon of ...

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