Article: Swept Away in Mombassa

EARLY ONE MORNING, JUST AS THE INDIAN OCEAN IS turning from plum to opal blue, an old man appears at the far end of the coral beach. He is thin, with a bony chest and strikingly muscular legs, hard and dark as charcoal, as if all his body's energy has gone to keep them strong. The straw basket he carries over one arm is almost as big as he is, and he holds it out as he steps gingerly over the jagged peaks of blue limestone that break the sand. At 50 yards, the outline of his brimless, embroidered cap, the emblem of the Swahili moslems, is visible. The monsoon breeze ruffles his tattered short-sleeved shirt, and high and tight around his waist he has wrapped a green-and-gold sarong called a ...

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