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Article: Discovering Moby Dick
- Article from:
- The Washington Post
- Article date:
- November 24, 2006
- Author:
CopyrightThis material is published under license from the Washington Post. All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Washington Post. (Hide copyright information)
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A neighborhood sushi joint is a rare fish in these parts. Most
serious Japanese restaurants are reasonably (and understandably)
large, and many of the more affordable sushi places are either mass-
production buffets whose margins depend on quantity rather than
quality or mom-and-pop places of varying amateurishness and
uncertain ethnicity. (Remember, if the seafood is too good a
bargain, it may not be too good.)
Wheaton's snug little Moby Dick doesn't fit into any of those
categories exactly: It's small but serious, a Korean family
operation with established credentials (chef-owner Chang Pyon has
worked for several area restaurants, including Sapporo, the M Street
sanctuary that was for ...