Article: The Main Ingredients: Feta fanatics; Oft-imitated cheese has its long-ago roots in Greece

robbyers@wvgazette.com

tara@wvgazette.com

BAD feta cheese is dry and overly salty. Good feta is creamy and tangy.

Whether you like feta probably depends on which version you've had most.

And even good feta can go bad if it's mistreated.

This brined, lily-white cheese is so important to Greeks that the nation's agricultural leaders have fought a long, hard battle to protect the name "feta" as Greek and Greek only.

Once made primarily by shepherds in the Greek countryside, feta has grown worldly, with France, Germany and Denmark getting in on the action.

In a few years, however, thanks to the Greeks' winning argument in front of the European Commission, feta produced anywhere else in Europe ...

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