Article: ON THE VINEYARD A seaside haven's famous lure

Scripps Howard News ServiceIF YOU GO

This place is cute," I thought, moments after driving off the ferry in Vineyard Haven. "Cute, cute, cute."Catherine Watson

This place is cute," I thought, moments after driving off the ferry in Vineyard Haven. "Cute, cute, cute."

That first-glance assessment stayed valid through my visit to the Massa-chusetts island called Martha's Vine-yard last fall, though I immediately began adding adjectives: historic, interesting, complicated.

Martha's Vineyard is an expensive getaway, a handsome haven for the rich and nearly rich, as pretty as a well-composed postcard, as quaint as a Disney-designed Main Street.

But beneath its polished surface--beyond the art ...

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