Article: Above the clouds by day, under a soft duvet by night

ADVENTURES

A new chain of lodges offers the chance to trek across Peru's peaks and ridges in comfort. Stephen Goodwin reports

Wayrac Lodge sits at 3,800m in the Peruvian Andes at a point where the high mountain pasture dips towards the tendrilled cloud forest. Directly south of the lodge rises the snow and ice peak of Humantay (5,917m) home to an apu, or mountain deity, revered by the Andean people.

Somewhat regretfully, we were only vouchsafed glimpses of Humantay's north face as our trek group halted for the night at the lodge. Though the Wayraccmachay valley in the Cordillera Vilcabamba is known as "the place where the wind lives", there was barely sufficient breeze to waft the mists ...

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