Article: CRUNCH TIME - Coarse bread crumbs add taste and texture to rustic cutlets and gratins.

BOSTON UNCOMMON / COOKING

Bread crumbs are one of those bit players in the kitchen that are only noticeable when they're very good or very bad. The vast majority of crumbs available in the supermarket are of the latter category, flavorless and texturally challenged. Those fine, dustlike bits are best saved for dishes, like meatballs, in which the crumbs act as a binder. For adding crunch and flavor to a cutlet, gratin, or baked pasta - the sexier part of bread crumbs' job description - you're better off making them yourself. The rustic dishes will stave off the season's chill and offer, at last, a starring role for the bread crumb.

OVEN-"FRIED" CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH ROSEMARY BREAD CRUMBS

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