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Article: THE REAL FIRST COURSE They're finding ways to keep bread on the table ; FOR DINERS BEGINNING A MEAL, BREAD IS NEAR - AND DEAR
- Article from:
- The Boston Globe (Boston, MA)
- Article date:
- April 2, 2008
- Author:
CopyrightCopyright 2008 The Boston Globe. Provided by ProQuest LLC. (Hide copyright information)
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Bread is the staff of life, the thing we all work to put on the
table. At restaurants, it's a promise of what's to come in the meal
ahead. Good bread, with good butter or olive oil, makes us
anticipate the food. It is, in essence, the real first course - the
appetizer's appetizer. But stale, uninspired white bread; limp
pieces with crust that whimpers rather than crunches; bread that
tastes like cotton batting: These things do not inspire confidence.
The breadbasket is a culinary welcome mat. Sometimes it gets pulled
out from under us.
"I don't believe you can have a great restaurant if you don't
have great bread," says Sel de la Terre chef Geoff Gardner. "They
say you can judge a ...