Article: Wine list a good guide to dining out in Paris

PARIS -- On my way to observe the harvest in Champagne, a few nights of rejuvenation were required before the short journey by train to Epernay.

That meant a bit of grog and good fellowship at a few of my favorite Paris haunts. It occurred to me as I boarded the train at Gare de l'Est that in three nights of wining and dining I had encountered three distinct levels of Parisian cuisine -- a bistro, a brasserie and an elegant restaurant.

To wine lovers these levels are of no small consequence, for the ambition of the wine list is directly proportionate to the level of cuisine.

For example, on my first night in Paris, following a grueling flight from California, I opted for the casual ambience ...

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