Article: Down to a science: Unlocking the secrets to batches that aren't pale and don't ever crumble

We all love great cookies. But cookies can drive us crazy. They can be too crumbly or pitifully pale. They can stick to the baking sheet like cement. They can spread all over the place. Then there is the question of the soft, puffy cookie vs. the flat, crisp cookie. Sometimes we want one kind and sometimes we want the other. How can we control the kind of cookie we get? Let's work our way through the issues, one at a time.

Even experienced cookie bakers have told me they have sent wonderful cookies to their grandchildren, only to have them arrive as nothing but crumbs. This one is easy to solve. When the baker adds a little water to flour and stirs, two proteins in the flour grab water ...

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