Article: The tables have turned

Remember when restaurants treasured their diners? The revamped and revitalised Quo Vadis does

The big question is, when did it all change? When did the restaurant get the upper hand? When did we diners became pathetic supplicants begging for scraps? Ooh, a table at 5.30pm? Yes please. You want it back at 7pm? No problem. Charged a fortune for some deluded chef's laboratory experiment, we thank them for the privilege. Tossed out the door without a goodbye, we make plans to go again. It's a classic case of the abused becoming dependent on the abuser.

I can remember when it wasn't like this; when a restaurant was there to make us feel comfortable and well-fed; something set up for our pleasure ...

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