Article: THE CREST OF A WAVE Shipshape galley serves up a catch of sensational seafood

ARCOONA @ THE BEARDMORE, Beardmore Street, Clydebank Tel : 0871 426 5221

Food: 3 stars

Atmosphere: 2 stars

Service: 3 stars

THE Moll has a lot in common with that ancient craft of the Clyde, shipbuilding. For one, her coupon is best viewed from behind a welder's mask. Her patter is less than riveting, she smokes like a funnel and other people tend to give her a wide berth.

But I was scuppered the other day when I agreed to roll the Tec- mobile down Clydebank way to see her in-laws. . . only to then weigh anchor at the shopping mall.

Just as I was about to man the lifeboats, she suggested we check out Arcoona, the recently re-rigged restaurant at the Beardmore Hotel.

For this ship-mate, that ...

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