Article: Food: Veal eat again Even Hannibal Lecter gets better press than veal eaters. But, says Michael Bateman, you don't have to be cruel to calves to be kind to your tastebuds

As food fashions go, veal seems an un-likely one. But what was the subject of mass protest in 1994 and 1995 has recently become a growth industry. A year ago, just 30 Sainsbury's stores stocked veal. Now it's in 80, and sales are up 360 per cent year-on-year.

Sainsbury's is hoping that those figures will rise further still. On Thursday, the supermarket took over Sir Terence Conran's Bluebird food hall in London, and veal is one of the stars of the show. The store has specially trained butchers on hand to recommend different cuts. Chefs will be there to tell people how to cook it. And if all goes to plan, the promotion will be rolled out across the country.

But before you rush off to form ...

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