Article: How do I like my wine? Steaming All aboard for a trip up Australia's Murray river by paddle steamer. Tim Heald feasts himself on fabulous food, drink and scenery

Two tinny toots, a puff of steam from her wood-fired engine and the paddle steamer Marion cast off from the docks at Mannum, South Australia, and began to nudge her way up the mighty Murray river, leaving a chorus line of pelicans circling disdainfully in her wake. Twenty-nine passengers were aboard, as well as a volunteer captain and crew. Most important of all, the boat carried a sommelier, a maitresse d' and three chefs. This was not just any old river excursion; this was a gastronomic weekend afloat under the auspices of Robert O'Callaghan's Rockford Wines.

The Barossa valley, an hour's drive north-east of Adelaide, is full of passionate and eccentric winemakers, but none more so than ...

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