Article: ELVIS LIVES He's newly married to the jazz singer Diana Krall, celebrating his 50th birthday and about to release his best album in years. And, admits the sardonic Elvis Costello, he is finally happy. But Craig McLean soon discovers it's perhaps best not to mention Britain (`insignificant'), critics (`patronising') or ex wives (`I can't live in the past')

Elvis Costello picks up a tiny guitar-like instrument from its plush case rest- ing on a huge hotel bed. He cradles it lovingly, as if it were a baby, against his barrel-like chest and picks out a little melody. It's a vintage ukulele, precision tooled by Hawaiian craftsmen.

He likes guitars a lot. But even though he still enjoys cranking things up to 11, he's no Nigel Tufnell. Costello's guitars are not for show. All receive a vigorous work-out. At a concert he played the other night he used seven different ones. Has he any idea how many he has?

"Oof," he exhales. "Dunno." A fair few, he says, but some were

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