Article: He hopes to wedge cheese into meals: ; Customers were slow to take cook's new dessert option

When Jeffrey Renkl worked at some of New York's top restaurants - Union Square Cafe, Aureole and Les Halles - a cheese course was part of the menu. "It was much more common in New York," Renkl says of the European custom of eating cheese and fruit at the end of a meal.

But when Renkl, now the chef and a co-owner of Cafe Routier in Old Saybrook, Conn., added a cheese course to his dessert menu last year, customers were slow to order it.

Although a composed cheese course is not on his current dessert menu, Renkl is undeterred. "I find that the clientele along the shoreline is becoming more sophisticated," says the chef, who continues to keep half a -dozen cheeses in the kitchen for people who ...

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