Article: Focaccia needn't take all day: ; Olive oil is better on top than inside the bread

FOCACCIA, the all-purpose Italian bread served as a snack or with soups or salads, is beyond the pale for most of us at home. Many recipes call for huge amounts of flour (6 to 7 cups), the preparation takes the better part of an afternoon, and it often comes out of the oven tough and dense. The question was, is there a quick and easy way to prepare the dough which, at the same time, produces a light, fragrant bread?

I started my testing by cooking recipes from "Trattoria Cooking," "Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking" and the new "Joy of Cooking." I concluded that 3 1/2 cups of flour was best since that made just enough dough to fit into a standard jelly roll pan, the container of choice ...

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