Article: blue cheese

HURRAH. Mould is back and blue cheese is enjoying a minor revival. After years of parmesan, mozzarella and goat's cheese with everything, there is a return to things pungent and veiny in kitchens around the country.

It's not that stilton, dolcelatte, gorgonzola, the rather humbler danish blue and exquisite farm cheeses such as Humphrey Errington's dunsyre blue actually disappeared. It's just that they were eaten as a course on their own, with bread or oatcakes, not used as a cooking ingredient. But fashions in food, as in everything else, are cyclical, and blue cheese is this week's snakeskin ankle boot: a great way of adding a bit of va va voom to the culinary equivalent of a pair of ...

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