Article: Travel: Pilgrimage for a salty dog Sunday Driver North Norfolk

WELLS-NEXT- the-Sea on a shivery morn ing, and time seemed to be playing tricks on me - a habit it has, on the slow-going coast of north Norfolk. The last time I had come here, three years ago, the only thing in motion along the harbour had been an angler cycling laboriously towards his solitary day's pleasure; and here he was again - or someone exactly like him - wellingtons flapping, bike chain clanking and breath smoking in the cold morning air.

The little town snored behind its walls of red brick and flint cobbles, reluctant to get up and face the sun that was peering palely through a light sea mist. A handful of fishing boats rocked gently against the quay wall, at rest between trips ...

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