Article: Books: Flabby thinking This celebration of fat is pretty thin stuff, finds Hilary Mantel

Eat Fat

by Richard Klein

Picador, pounds 15.99 WIDER STILL and wider, shall our bounds be set. So it seems; while famine rages at the margins, the people at the snug centre of the developed world increase each year in girth. Richard Klein, author of Cigarettes Are Sublime, has set out to comfort-feed those fatties who feel guilty. The appetiser here is a portion of voluminous and slightly sickening acknowledgments. Then comes a preface, which the author perversely exhorts us to save till last - as if it were some gratifying savoury, like a devil-on-horseback. As most readers are human - or at least aspire to be - we wolf it down at once. It's curiously insubstantial. Where's the beef? Wait ...

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