Article: Travel: Temples of doom Paul Gogarty returns to `one of the most magical cities on earth' to find it in danger of being overwhelmed by pollution and development

AS THE plane touched down and taxied towards Kathmandu's new terminal building, I noticed a man grazing two goats beside the runway.

The first rule in Nepal has

always been that the new must accommodate the old. But outside the airport such easy co-existence was obviously proving increasingly difficult. Having run the gauntlet of hotel touts, I found myself barrelling in an old beaten-up Indian Ambassador through the polluted bedlam that Kathmandu has become since I first visited the Hindu kingdom 13 years ago. Washing dried on river banks as it always had, hamburger-sized cow pats dried on walls to be used as fuel for domestic fires, signs were still handpainted and women, as usual, were ...

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