Article: Breaking the mold Troy artisanal cheese maker keeps demand high by creating a robust flavor underground

Eight feet underground, in a bunkerlike cave, a solitary light bulb illuminates wooden shelves filled with wheels of cheese. Some have a light mold scattered across their tops - small puddles of white or green; others are enveloped in a featherlike mold of silver threads.

Water drips from the concrete ceiling onto the gravel floor. It's just about 40 degrees and 96 percent humidity.

"It's almost like a tomb, isn't it?" artisanal cheese maker and farmer Robert Perol says.

It took Perol two years to construct his cheese cave, which is accessible only by a crude homemade elevator from his cheese room above. "This cave needs no refrigeration and provides an incredible rind," he says.

As he ...

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