Article: THE LAP OF THE GODS

had settled were two stumpy islands that had been the outer edges of the old volcano. These became known as Thirasia and San-torini. The 10-mile wide crater lake between them, where the heart of the volcano had been ripped out, filled up with sea water.

That's what I'm looking down into now, a sight so serene it is impossible to believe it was once a cauldron of exploding rock. However, there are small reminders. The grey, flat surface of the calderais disturbed by three islands that have thrust up from the seabed in recent centuries. The largest, Nea Kameni, is in fact a small active volcano. Close up, it is a pile of ugly, rubble-strewn rock, thrown up as if some giant were down below ...

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