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Article: A STARRY CHEF IS RISING IN THE EAST ; RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK
- Article from:
- The Evening Standard (London, England)
- Article date:
- May 28, 2009
- Author:
CopyrightCopyright 2009 Evening Standard - London. Provided by ProQuest LLC. (Hide copyright information)
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EASTSIDE INN
***
40 St John Street, EC1 (020 7490 9230, www.esilondon.com). A meal
for two, about Pounds 140
EASTSIDE Inn (strange New Yorky name) has just opened on the site
that used to house the rough-and-tumble wine bar Vic Naylor's. Just
a few yards down the road is St John -- probably the single most
influential restaurant in London of the past 10 years. Here Fergus
Henderson pioneered a new simplicity, a return to gutsy British
food, that has now been much imitated all over London. The dominant
aesthetic in this area is still dictated by Smithfield meat market -
- warehousey, semi-industrial, a bit stark, a touch clubby, not too
bourgeois.
But now here's something completely ...