Article: Marrakech: City of souks, snakes, and side trips

Smoke rises like thin clouds above the Jemaa El Fna, the public square at the center of Marrakech. It is dusk, and white-robed food vendors tame hissing flames as they grill kebabs, simmer sheep heads and saute snails.

The music is hypnotic. Berbers, the original inhabitants of Morocco, play long, mystical strains of a percussive groove, while the Gnawa, descendants of the Sudan, draw throngs of tourists with their drum-and-bass beats. Snake charmers and transvestite belly dancers compete for the camera, while a shoeless girl begs for money.

The scene is the most intense blend of sights, sounds and scents I have ever witnessed, and it is the first thing I tell friends who ask me if I think ...

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