Article: How organic food has been dished up distastefully

Elitist, dear and healthy: certain meat and vegetables have been simmering too long in a stew of misconceptions, writes ANN MARIE HOURIHANE

I ONCE had a friend who was an organic farmer. He gave it up to become a psychiatric nurse. Frankly, we were relieved; we felt that we had suffered enough. There were the problems over getting his organic accreditation, there were the weevils, there was the carrot fly, there was the fact that he could not afford to pay anybody wages. On the rare occasions when he had enough crop to harvest, his single assistant was paid in cigarettes instead of cash. We were not terribly grateful for the cigarettes - we were his friends, after all, and we had to smoke ...

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