Article: The challenge of the Brahmaputra Steering a ship down one of the world's great rivers isn't plain sailing, as Tim Pozzi discovers on a voyage into uncharted tourist territory

Gazing from the bridge of the RV Charaidew, it was difficult to tell where the grey-green of the Brahmaputra river ended and the murky grey of the Assamese sky began. The ship's captain seemed anxious. The enormous river, 1,800 miles long and sometimes six miles wide, is littered with thousands of sandbanks and islets.

"He is looking for those small ripples on the surface, or some slight shifts of colour," explained Pratik, the cruise manager. "These could be dangerously shallow areas," he added, with a nervous laugh. I looked in turn at the half dozen or so other crew members on the bridge. They offered me reassuring, but tense, smiles. I got the feeling they'd have been more relaxed if I ...

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