Article: Keeping Acadia's quiet side to themselves ; If you go . . .

SCHOODIC PENINSULA - I was tucking my paddle beneath the bungee straps of our tandem kayak when deep, throaty breaths punctuated the silence of Frenchman Bay. Twenty feet to our left, a harbor seal bobbed in the glassy water, sucking air before another dive.

Our guide, Darrin Kelly, was pouring cardamom tea with local maple syrup when the seal resurfaced to our right, and a bit closer. "He's a curious teenager," Kelly said, identifying the fur of a juvenile male.

Cruising along Yellow Island by way of Bunkers Cove, our intimate group - my sister, Diana, cousin Allie, and I - found unexpected solitude. We were mere miles off the coast of Bar Harbor in summer high season, yet we saw no ...

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