Article: D I N I NG OUT ; From Baja California and its US neighbor comes a flurry of fish tacos authentic enough to take you there

There's an emotion travelers bring home from vacation as an unintended souvenir. Call it schaden-food: pleasure derived from the misfortune of having eaten something wonderful, then being unable to replicate the experience. Symptoms include sighing, poking halfheartedly at lesser versions of the dish, and saying things like: "This doesn't hold a candle to the sushi at Tsukiji market," "The French would never call this bouillabaisse," and "Now if only [your hometown here] could produce a good fish taco."

Boston, at least, can produce a good fish taco. Originating in Baja California, with Ensenada as its arguable epicenter, the dish is also a particular specialty of San Diego; it's something ...

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