Article: AT THE TABLE

By CAROL DEPTOLLA

I get a buzz from great restaurants.

Maybe you get it, too. It's that feeling of bliss by meal's end - - warmth, happiness, pure satisfaction.

The most important element, always, is the food. It's deeply flavorful, tastes fresh and often is attractively presented. Some plates deliver a special joy and engagement when the chef's creativity is plain to see -- not in curlicues of sauces, but in juxtapositions of flavors and ingredients that perhaps wouldn't have occurred to a mere left-brain mortal.

But excellence doesn't stop there with the best restaurants. They have servers who help make it an evening to remember. As any diner knows, service can make or break a meal. ...

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