Article: Arctic Blast; For a couple of months in Churchill, Manitoba, the polar bears come calling

Early morning on the shores of Canada's Hudson Bay.

The gently rising sun cast just enough light and shadow to create confusion. Two nights earlier, the first snowfall of the season had blanketed the region in a thick, soft white shroud; one night later, fierce winds had blown much of that away, leaving only patches off which the low light ricocheted blindingly.

Every pale patch on the ground was a polar bear hunched in the willows, sheltering from the wind. Until it wasn't: Upon closer inspection, each suspect reverted to being snow, a rock, a trick of the light.

I was a guest on Buggy One, a kind of mobile research station on monster truck wheels (a stripped-down version of the buggies ...

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