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Austin, Texas: Deep in the heart of this laid-back college town is a love of the offbeat - and that includes bat watching.

I'm lounging on a verdant patio watching a man in Groucho Marx glasses peck away at his laptop. To my right, two ladies with big hair and bright red lips howl, and howl, and howl. Nearby, a garage band launches into "Smoke on the Water." A neon phallus hovers above. I check my watch - almost time to see the bats.

No, I'm not in a David Lynch movie. I'm in Austin. People have a lot of preconceptions about Texas: It's rich, it's provincial, it's a haven for conservative cowboys. Think of Austin as the cute, quirky ...

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