Article: Feeding aspirations is a worthy pursuit

Like many of the people who have opined about the demise of Gourmet, I grew up surrounded by the magazine: I ate up what was on its pages, literally. The shelves that hold years of issues in my parents' kitchen fed me through childhood, as my mother made risotto before Arborio rice could be found in supermarkets, as my father stuffed our weekend French toast with dark chocolate and glazed it with jam. And thus the magazine fed my idea of what food is. It fed everyone's idea of what food is.

And so, in a way, we grew out of it. Gourmet was an aspirational magazine, imagining food as a symbol for sophistication. It helped drive our palates, until that sophistication became part of the ...

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