Article: Skip the Beads, Hold the Bourbon; A New Orleans Itinerary You'll Actually Remember When You Get Home

Tourism is by far New Orleans's biggest business -- 8.5 million visitors in 2003. Mammoth chain hotels dominate the lower central business district. Conventions and big meetings follow one another like cars in rush-hour traffic. Living in a tourist bubble, partying too much and inquiring too little, you could have a hell of a time in New Orleans and never really experience the actual city at all. Many do exactly this.

But there are better alternatives. This old city on the Mississippi, well established as a debauched playground for the incurably juvenile, is also the most exotic travel destination in the United States. A seriously curious traveler could spend weeks here and not see ...

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