Article: Reich on ; Berlin may be a cloven city still filled with ghosts of the past, but the shopping is inspirational, the art is world-class and there are absolutely no tourists. Charlotte Taylor is bowled over

Berlin is one of those cities that can't be navigated with a guide book alone.

Berliners who include the filmmaker Wim Wenders have never had the slightest interest in participating in the burgeoning tourist industry or sharing their city with common pedestrians, and it shows. As I jogged through the Alte Nationalgalerie in the former East Berlin, taking in all the glorious Caspar David Friedrichs, I was told off at every step (for not checking in my coat, getting too close to the paintings, breathing practically). It was the same at the Deutsche Guggenheim Museum (Das ist verboten is a German mantra), and the exhausting, recently reopened Bode Museum.

In fact, most of Berlin is a ...

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