Article: Biscuits float on cloud of know-how

ATLANTA Let's talk about biscuits. Southern biscuits. Buttermilk biscuits, so hot you can grab one but not hold it longer than it takes to move from tray to plate.

The top is a perfect circle, burnished gold, oven-crisp. The bottom is a darker disk, thicker from contact with the baking sheet. The columnar side is snow white, as tender as sifted flour.

It's a two-handed job: Grab the top and bottom, give a gentle tug, and it pulls apart like a warm cloud. A haze of buttermilk-scented steam rises from each ragged half. Now, quickly grab pats of butter, ease them on ever so meekly, and watch the cleaved biscuit drink in the fast-melting yellow emulsion.

Honey? Jam? Sorghum molasses? ...

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