Article: Down the rugged Baja Peninsula, a Mexican cruise on the wild side

CABO SAN LUCAS, Mexico "The very air here is miraculous, and outlines of reality change with the moment," wrote author John Steinbeck. "A dream hangs over the whole region, a brooding kind of hallucination."

Formed a mere 20 million years ago when the San Andreas fault separated the Baja Peninsula from Mexico, the Sea of Cortez is moody, lonely - somber despite strong sunlight, and rich in wildlife. Settlements are rare, for the sea (also known as the Gulf of California) can be forbidding to man.

Few ships ply the deep (as much as two miles) and sometimes dangerous waters, although this writer sailed it successfully with 60 other passengers in a trip arranged by Special Expeditions, ...

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