Article: BERLIN'S BIRTHDAY BASH // It celebrates the richness of 750 years

Mark Twain called Berlin "the European Chicago" - and he meant that as a compliment.

"A rest to the eye, a thoroughly well governed, a free city," Twain rhapsodized after an 1874 visit. He praised "the spaciousness, the roominess of the city. There is no other city, in any country, whose streets are so wide. . . . Only parts of Chicago are stately and beautiful, whereas all of Berlin is stately and substantial, and it is not merely in parts but uniformly beautiful."

Fourteen years earlier, Henry Adams had been less dazzled. The erudite New Englander described Berlin as "a poor, keen-witted provincial town, simple, dirty, uncivilized, and in most respects disgusting."

A century and ...

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