Article: California puts brand on top-quality brandy

UKIAH, Calif. A few miles up a winding dirt road, the rugged coastal hills that split Mendocino County from north to south suddenly plateau at a grassy expanse known as Eagle Rock Ranch.

Wire-and-post fencing encloses a collection of plain wooden structures - among them a barn, an adjacent shed and a two-story residence. Tending a flock of sheep, grazing in the distance, seems to entail the day's only work.

Yet, inside a boxlike building, a once-abandoned still is working overtime to produce a high-powered, clear alcohol from fermented grape juice.

Despite the mystery and romance of a hidden hillside location, this is not modern-day moonshine.

Instead, the bulbous copper kettle, ...

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