Article: The perfect paradise: Does such a place exist?

`If there is a paradise on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here."

"Here" was one of the great halls of the Red Fort in Old Delhi, where visitors can still see the decorative Persian script of the 17th century illuminating those words over the arches.

The Grand Moghul, Shah Jahan - at whose command the whole complex of pavilions, palaces, mosques, rose-filled gardens, lotus pools and waterfalls was built on the edge of the Yamuna River - might well have thought his lavish court a paradise on earth. If you go there now, you can hardly help admiring the elegance and delicacy of the Red Fort's architecture.

But look out from the terraces, and you will see that the Yamuna has changed ...

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