Article: Corned Beef; The Second Time Around

There used to be a kosher-style (i.e., non-kosher) delicatessen a block from our apartment. This meant that corned beef and pastrami were once a 45-second walk away from our front door. About ten or a dozen years ago it was replaced by a photocopying shop and now all we see through the window is ream after ream of paper made from grove after grove of trees. Mind you, these days the difference can sometimes be hard to detect: fat phobia too often renders these once- succulent meats sawdust-dry, made of excessively lean cuts to begin with and then, to add insult to injury, trimmed of virtually all the external fat that would at least have provided the illusion of lusciousness. It isn't clear ...

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