Article: Discovering Spain's conquistador country // Extremadura evokes a past of harsh glory

TRUJILLO, Spain We had interrupted the plump nun at her morning task of sweeping the gateway to the 17th century Dukes of San Carlos Palace in this Extremaduran town, which styles itself "Cradle of the Conquistadors."

Behind us in the main square, a majestic space fit for a city 10 times Trujillo's size, rose the bronze equestrian statue of its most famous native, Francisco Pizarro. This onetime swineherd of bastard birth set off in 1523 at age 48 to conquer the Incan empire and plunder the treasures of Peru. Adventurers like Pizarro and Hernan Cortes were a prime export of Extremadura, the sun-baked region southwest of Madrid that still is one of the least prosperous parts of Spain.

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