Article: Bison and elk, plus the power of the geysers

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK Imagine a movie critic who never has seen "Citizen Kane." That's the rough equivalent of a travel editor who never has visited Yellowstone.

Such was my disgraceful condition until last weekend, when curiosity about the impact of the 1988 fires finally brought me to the world's first and most famous national park. Now I've sampled Yellowstone, charred trees and all, and the place swept me off my well-traveled feet.

The roadside elk and bison were enthralling enough to an urban cliff-dweller, as were the views into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. But what captivated me completely was the Dante's Inferno-worth of geysers, fumaroles, mud volcanoes, hot ...

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