Article: WISCONSIN'S BIG CHEESES // CHIC EUROPEAN NEIGHBORS ARE MOVING IN ON CHEDDAR & CO.

WATERTOWN, Wis. The winter after the French company Bresse Bleu opened its first U.S. plant here, it was so cold the cheese turned blue.

And just last month, a group of food writers gathered at Auricchio Cheese, an Italian cheese factory in Denmark, Wis., (really) to enjoy a home-cooked buffet showcasing the company's cheeses. Somebody asked Patrizia Auricchio, wife of company president Errico, if she ever missed her hometown of Cremona, Italy.

"Yes," she replied. Then she glanced outside, where 4 inches of snow blanketed the blooming lilacs. "The weather is one of the things I miss most."

The French and Italian newcomers have discovered what the Germans and Swiss before them long ...

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