Article: Striking out amid the art of Florence

FLORENCE, Italy With apologies to W. C. Fields, I was in Florence a few weeks ago, but it was closed. Well, not totally. But enough to irritate Americans lured to this Italian tourist mecca by its millenium's worth of art treasures.

A handful of Florence's innumerable collections and churches tower above the rest, and these are the spots visitors flock to the Tuscan metropolis to see. But during a recent stay, my wife, Virginia, and I - along with thousands of other tourists - found ourselves repeatedly frustrated in efforts to view these masterpieces.

When we arrived, the pensione where we had reserved rooms months ago had sold our room to another couple. The proprietor was sorry, but ...

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