Article: Despite mimics, there is still no substitute for fat

Fat is the cool slide of ice cream on your tongue. Fat is the snap of corn chips. It is the moisture of muffins, the brittleness of croissants and the tenderness of well-marbled steak.

Fat delivers taste, aroma and texture so efficiently that one researcher has called it flavor's magic carpet.

It adds so much goodness to food that if you remove fat in the interest of health, you had better find something else to take its place. And because no one has yet come up with a substance that can do everything fat can do, food technologists are using a variety of products to mimic its virtues.

Fat, of course, is the health taboo of the '90s. It has been cited as a contributor to obesity, ...

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