Article: ITALY ON AND OFF THE TOURIST TRACK // Conquering the crowds in Florence

FLORENCE It was tourist high noon in Florence, and we'd let a giggling pack of French schoolkids get the drop on us.

The Gallic adolescents galloped past, all elbows and pimples, followed closely by a camera-clutching Japanese phalanx. My wife, Marcia, and I had been outflanked by sheer weight of tour-group numbers at the turnstile leading to the Medici Chapels of San Lorenzo church, where Michelangelo's famous ducal tombs are the main magnet.

On our third full-throttle sightseeing day in what the American Express Pocket Guide to Florence and Tuscany calls "the most densely packed urban treasure house in Europe," we were starting to go wobbly at the knees and mushy in the brain. By rapid ...

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