Article: A French legacy // Sharp, earthy goat cheese takes root in America

Twice a day, guests of the Squire Tarbox Inn in Wiscasset, Maine, are treated to a singular spectacle. "Come meet the ladies," says innkeeper Karen Mitman, leading a gaggle of curious city slickers to an immaculate barn.

The "ladies" are a dozen playful, brown-eyed, long-eared Nubian goats who eagerly wait for Karen to empty their swollen udders. Once a week, Karen and her husband, Bill, transform the snowy milk into a mouth-watering array of goat cheeses.

Ten years ago, most Americans had never tasted goat cheese. If they had, it was probably in France, where chevre (pronounced shevr) figures prominently on the cheese tray traditionally served between the main course and dessert.

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